Parquet is one of the most expensive and sophisticated flooring. It is aesthetic, environmentally friendly and durable in operation, especially if it is properly maintained. However, like any other finishing material, over time the parquet loses its external gloss. The reason for this may be the effect of chemical detergents, high humidity or mechanical damage.
The most common way to restore parquet is hitching, followed by applying a new layer of varnish. But this option takes a lot of time and effort. In some cases, it is possible to restore the parquet flooring without resorting to such radical measures.
We will tell you how to do your own renovation of the flooring without looping.
Materials and tools for work
The range of possible damage to parquet floors is quite wide. It depends on what tools will be needed for the repair work. The most commonly encountered problems are scratches and chips, loosening of individual dies and creaking.
For paintwork The following tools and materials will be required.
- The roller with a pile of medium length, up to 1 cm or a wide brush.
- Rolling trough for varnish or primer.
- Paints and varnishes: varnish, primer, and, if necessary, stain.
If you want to sealing cracks and chips, you will need to purchase putty knife and wood putty.
To to get rid of a creak or to strengthen shaky dieswill be needed, depending on the technology of repair, a hammer and nails, a screwdriver with self-tapping screws, a tube with liquid nails and a syringe gun for them.
Types of restoration work without parquet hitching
Restoration of parquet floors does not always provide for parquet hinging. Often you can do without this procedure, time-consuming and effort.
Putty
External defects resulting from mechanical impacts, deep scratches and chips, can be masked with putty on wood.
It is not difficult to buy a ready putty composition today, however many people prefer to make it the old fashioned way. For this take small wood chips and mix them with epoxy in a ratio of 1: 4.
Putty is applied to the damaged surface with a small spatula. It is recommended to use a plastic or rubber tool.
IMPORTANT! If you have only a metal spatula, then during operation, be careful not to scratch them with varnish in the adjacent sections of the parquet.
When the plastered area dries, it is rubbed with fine sandpaper. Sometimes it is necessary to restore the mosaic pattern of individual dies in a putty place. "Pseudo-seams" are applied with a knife or scratched with an awl on a slightly dried putty solution.
Scratching
Deep scratches can be repaired with the same home putty made of sawdust and epoxy. Another option is to use a ready-made compound purchased at a hardware store.
Before you start puttying, you need to clean this area to a clean board. This can be done using rough sandpaper or a grinder.
At the end of such a local looping, the dust formed is washed off, and the scratch is carefully coated. After the putty mortar dries, it is sanded with fine sandpaper.
Crack removal
Sometimes wide cracks appear between individual cubes, and they themselves become loose. This occurs when insufficiently dry material has been used when laying floors. After drying, the dies decreased in volume, and gaps appeared between them.
They can be repaired using the same putty followed by the drawing of seams. But if the dies stick weakly in their nests and when “walking” on them they “play” relative to each other, then the putty will very quickly crack and crumble.
TIP. This problem can be solved with the help of studs driven into adjacent dies at an angle of 45 °.
Stacked in this way, the bars will not “play”, and the putty will last much longer in the cracks. So that the studs do not stick out, they should be buried in a tree with the help of some kind of damper.
Rid of squeaks
Another common problem with parquet floors is creaking while walking on them. The reason for this is the loosening of the dies and loose fit to each other.
Solving the problem can be a new decking flooring. For this, a set of special wedges are purchased in a hardware store. Next, remove the plinth around the perimeter of the room, and remove the old wedges. Every 50 cm, we drive in new wedges between the wall and the parquet flooring. The parquet thus compacted should stop creaking.
If the creak is observed only on separate sections of the floor, the reason for this may lie in the "bubbling" of the parquet when it lags behind the floor. Such places can also clap when you step on them.
Eliminate such a defect with the help of "liquid nails." In a problem area in several places, holes the size of the nozzle of a tube with glue are drilled. After that, glue is pumped into the space between the floor and the parquet flooring, and some massive object, for example, a cabinet or chest of drawers, is placed on top.
After the glue has set, the parquet in this place should stop creaking and clapping.
Useful Tips
- To get an ideal surface after puttying, the varnish should be applied on top in several layers. The recommended minimum number of layers is 3.
- After the first layer has dried, it should be thoroughly wiped with fine emery paper. All work on puttying and subsequent varnishing of the parquet is recommended to be carried out at a temperature of the order of +15 to +25 degrees.
- During the drying of varnish, it is impossible to artificially accelerate this process by opening windows or installing a fan in the room. The varnish does not tolerate drafts and is capable of exfoliating, cracking and becoming cloudy under their influence.
- Parquet should be wedged out at an air humidity of not more than 40%, otherwise after drying the wedges and parquet blocks the floors will begin to creak again.
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